Emma. February 2020 Director: Autumn de Wilde
The latest in a long line of adaptations of the last novel published in Austen’s lifetime, Autumn de Wilde’s Emma. is an absolutely exquisite imagining. This perfectly cast comedy of passionate misunderstanding features enough longing glances and bucolic country villages to keep the most fervent Austen fan happy, whilst introducing some added extras for those not yet convinced. It isn’t entirely without fault; it does feel a bit more sumptuous than scintillating in parts, and it veers towards an excuse to play dress-up rather than a focused attempt to understand the emotional effects of the wayward Emma’s private goals, but overall, I loved this version of a classic.
Autumn de Wilde’s film begins with some bare-faced cheek and ends with a nosebleed, discovery of morals (sort of) and, of course, marriages. In between is a lavish display of wealth, beauty, humour, passion, longing, anger, and tea sets. The film is bright, airy, and clean, with no half-measures or muted tones. Pastel furniture serves to bring out the strong colours of the handsome costumes. One thing which drew me to this adaptation was the array of costumes shown in the trailer. The film itself did not disappoint, with a lovely wide range of pelisses, spencers, printed cottons, high waistlines, and even higher collars; men had to fight with these towering collars as well as with their fraught passions. Several of the pieces appear to be recreations of genuine garments, including a deep pink embroidered net dress which can be found in the Victoria and Albert Museum. My absolute favourite is a deep mustardy yellow ensemble worn by Emma in posters advertising the film. Period-accurate ringlets emerge from underneath a large feathered hat which matches the patterned reticule carried in Emma’s white crochet-patterned gloves. Vivid colours were much appreciated throughout and would have been in full use during the time period, especially by the upper classes. I very much enjoyed seeing a period production with such rich tones. Consider the fact that everything would have been lit by candlelight; if you wore anything too drab and dreary you would not be seen by your society friends at those beautiful balls!
This may be an obvious comparison to make for those who are a fan of his work, but I was reminded of Wes Anderson through the colour use and synchronicity of characters on-screen. Everyone was arranged just-so, sitting at very particular angles and moving around the scenes in such a way that was very reminiscent Anderson’s specific stylised way of shooting. Perhaps this is a reflection of de Wilde’s past as a music video director, cover art photographer and fashion photographer. It does occasionally feel barely-skin-deep and leads to a tinge of style over substance, but I appreciated the dollhouse aesthetics. Fun Fact: According to an Architectural Digest article (https://www.architecturaldigest.com/story/emma-set-design), one of the wishes for the film was that the house used as the Woodhouse residence be one not seen on film before, which added a certain freshness to the production, further to all those lovely vivid colours!
While the cake stands gleamed, polite society sparkled and candles flickered, the cast shined above all. Bill Nighy (Mr. Woodhouse) was a fussy, fiddly, funny hypochondriac who was constantly verging on the ridiculous without ever toppling over into being irritating. Everything is a disaster and he is not the expected calm or level-headed presence that a head of the family ‘should’ have, which is quite refreshing. Johnny Flynn (Mr. Knightley) barely keeps himself in check throughout; expressing his deepest desires in a look or a grimace or a darted glance, he was, to me, a very true portrayal of want and exasperation. You could feel the frustration in a scene in which he flings his jacket and then himself to the floor after a frustrating interaction with Emma. Also, actually, quite funny! I felt him very well matched to the role and to Emma herself. I much preferred his detachment and only-just controlled emotion to the Mr. Knightley given to us in the 1996 version.
Anya Taylor-Joy is a dream as Emma Woodhouse. Again, compared to the 1996 version, this Emma came out on top. I felt Gwyneth Paltrow was a bit too prissy in ’96 (sorry, Gwyneth) which meant I didn’t even really notice the famously harsh picnic scene. In Taylor-Joy’s hands I couldn’t miss it. I felt that Taylor-Joy was sharper and more aloof throughout the film which suited the character far better than if she had been prim and proper. After all, we don’t actually have to like our main characters, but they do have to be engaging. In de Wilde’s adaptation, Emma had the right mix of being very sure of herself and being entirely out of her depth once her machinations start throwing out unintended results. Emma fancies herself as separate and ‘above all that’ but in actuality, she is purposefully ignoring what goes on around her in order to keep her independence (obviously, why wouldn’t you I suppose). She can live vicariously through others while keeping her autonomy and position as carer of her father’s estate, with all the freedom and wealth that entails. Although she does start to realise that perhaps, she should actually think about her plans a bit before acting on them, I’m not sure I detected much character development in this version, but I really don’t think that matters. In fact, I liked it. We do not need her to transform into an angel or suddenly become as lovely and nice and accomplished as Miss Fairfax. She just needs to learn something, which she does, which makes the character of Emma Woodhouse feel all the more real. She does not need to apologise in order for us to be invested in the story.
Callum Turner as Frank Churchill spoke and acted as though he was about ready to ravage every teacup or glass of wine or woman he came across. He had lots of fun threatening to be a bit sleazy but really had his eyes on only one woman (and it wasn’t Emma, to her shock). Josh O’Connor gave a wonderfully awkward, hammed up performance as an obsessive, petty, vindictive Mr. Elton. He has the perfect customer service face for pleasing someone despite what you really think, and he also had excellent comic timing. I love it when you can tell someone’s up to something! Connor Swindell as Mr. Martin was the loveliest, sweetest, most forgiving man in the village, perfect for the equally lovely Harriet. In a traditional love story Harriet and Mr. Martin could be the main characters what with all their lovelorn glances and unfair separation at the hands of another who doesn’t care for them, but Austen’s masterful take on romance sees them become more of a side dish to Emma’s impetuous main course. Oliver Chris (John Knightley) is just brilliant at combining permanent agitation and exasperation into a riled-up supporting role, who also has excellent timing.
Harriet Smith, played by Mia Goth, genuinely showed true happiness and vulnerability. I felt that Goth played her very well with a voice and stance that paired well with the character of Harriet. I did enjoy the development of character from girlish hopeless romantic to a woman who knows her position and can stand her ground. She is naïve but not a weakling; once she discovers her own sense of self, she is very capable of standing tall. Mia Goth showed just the right amount of nervousness without reverting to childishness. I thought her very sweet. Amber Anderson as Jane Fairfax was also lovely, and while I keep repeating this, another great casting who matched the character completely. I loved her scene stealing performances at the piano and the shock of those in the audience when her paying is forceful and intense, rather than the expected delicate reflection of outer self.
My favourite, my absolute favourite character, above all, is the one and only Mrs. Elton, played with aplomb by Tanya Reynolds. While very spiny in the ’96 version, here she is pompous and ridiculous which just feels so much better. She is unintentionally hilarious takes herself so very seriously. I adored every single one of her scenes, especially when she protests that she isn’t overdressed and doesn’t do that sort of thing while wearing a ludicrous get-up and hitting the dancefloor as soon as she can. Miranda Hart, meanwhile, completes the cast with the innocently happy Miss Bates. Another favourite, her bumbling is a joy to behold, and that heart-breaking picnic scene is handled ever so well by Hart. I want to be more like the charming Miss Bates.
(I do need to quickly mention the side and background characters, none of whom were wasted. Part of the scenery they most certainly were not, and their smirks or bewildered expressions added a nice touch to the awkward scenes.)
Finally, I cannot talk about a Regency adaptation without mentioning the dancing. The clearest plot device to encourage emotions to the fore, the dancing is extremely important. See also Pride & Prejudice; here as there, the couple (Mr. Knightley and Emma, Mr. Darcy and Elizabeth) are both physically and metaphorically separated from all else. It is intense and suffocating yet sensual and forces a realisation of the passion simmering below the surface, despite the only contact being through light hand holding. Can you love someone if you cannot dance with them?
As you can probably tell, I liked this film. Stylistically on point, brilliant cast, period accurate, and, in my opinion, better than the 1996 version. It’s been out for a while now, but I urge you to have a look. Now please excuse me whilst I gaze longingly at a handsome yet slightly arrogant local landowner from across the other side of a ballroom. . .
Here are some links to interesting articles for those who wish to read more:
https://fashionista.com/2020/02/emma-movie-autumn-de-wilde-interview-costumes
http://www.songsmyth.com/menday.html
https://www.historic-uk.com/CultureUK/Georgian-Fashion/